Sewing machine



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F. ASHWORTH SEWING MACHINE Original Filed May 19, 1920 14 Sheets-Sheeti4 Patented Sept. 22, i 1931 I UNITED; STATES P T.el rr oFrlcE FREDnsnwonrn. or BEVERLY, massacnosm'rs, ass renon To UNITED snot: m-

CHINEEY CORPORATION, or PATERSON, 1\ IEW JERSEY, a CORPORATION 01 NEWJERSEY SEWING MACHINE Application filed ma 19, 1920, semi No. 382,558.Renewed mmiaii 22, 1926.

The present invention relates to sewing machines and'more particularlyto lock stitch outs'ole shoe sewing machines which are pro- V vidledwith a curved hook needle and a curved aw 6 l The object of the presentinvention is to simplify and improve the construction and inode ofoperation of sewing machines particularly of the type referred to. iththis object in view'the featuresfof the present invention consist incertainconstructions, ar rangements and combinations of'partshereinafterdescribed and claimed, the advantagesof which will be obvious to thoseskilled in'the ai't.. l u The several features of the presentinvention-will be clearly understoodfrom the following description andaccompanying drawingsinwhich: I, .Figure 1 is a front elevationof a lockstitch outsole shoesewing machineembodying. the features in theirpreferred form; Fig. 2 is a right side elevation; Fig. 3 is a face viewof astop cam and'its follower forming parts '4 is a rear elevation ofthemachine; Figs. 5

and 6 are right and left side elevations on an enlarged scale of thehead of the machine; 7 Fig. 7 is a vertical sectional view takensubfront elevation of'the take-up shown at the l mit of its retractingmovement; Fig. 13 is a vertical sectional view .of a portion of thepresser footactuating mechanism with the partsshown in the position thatthey assume when the needle is at the limit of its loop drawing stroke;Fig.- 14 is a similar view of the presser foot actuating mechanism withthe parts shown in the positionthey assume immediately after the needlehas reached the ofthe stop mechanism of the machine Fig.

stantia-lly on the line 77 of Fig. 1; Fig. 8

10, respectively, of 5; Fig. llis a r limit of its work piercing stroke;Fig. 15 is a detailed sectional view taken on the line 15-15 of Fig. 9;Fig.16- is a. detailed section- :11 view taken on the line 1616 of Fig.5; Fig. 17 is avertical sectional view, partly in elevation, of'theshuttle mechanism'and other stitch forming devices looking towardtheright of the needle; F ig. 18 is a front view of a portion of theshuttle mechanism illustrated in Fig. 17; Fig. 19 is a view similar toFig. 17 but looking toward the left.

mounted the needle, awl, thread hook, fudge knife and edge-gage; Fig. 21is a detailed transverse sectional view of the bobbin case lookingtoward the rear of the machine; Fig.

22 is'a rear elevation of the bobbin case Fig, '23, is a verticalsectional view of a portion of ".the driving and 'stoppingmechanism'ofthe machine taken on the line 2323 of Fig. 4;

Fig. 24 is a sectional view taken on the line 2424= of Fig. 23; and Fig.25 is a sectional plan view taken on the line 2525 of Fig. 23.

In the sewing machine. illustratedin'the drawings, the Work is fed bymeans of a work 1 support and presser foot while the needle and awl areout of the work. At the completion of the feeding operation the awl isactuated to pierce the work and as the awl retracts the needle closelyfollows theawl through the work. During the feeding operation and duringthe described movements of the awl and needle, the work is firmlyclamped onthe work support by the presser foot. At the limit of the workiercing stroke of the needle, the pressure of the presser foot on thework is relieved and the presser foot and work support are returned totheir initial "position whereupon the lpresser foot 1s again caused toclam the wor firmly on the work support. As t e needle is in the workduring the back feeding or retraction of the work support and presserfoot, there is no danger of the Work becoming dislodged by the worksupport and presser foot being drag ed over the work, and the needle issupporte at this en the work support and presser foothave been retractedand the presser foot is .,caused to clamp the work on the work support,the loop drawing stroke of the needle is initiated. f

The construction of the work support and presser foot, and theiractuating mechanism is such that there is no danger of any back lashoccuring even whenthese parts become worn with use. The feeding of thework by means of thework support and presser foot permits the awl andneedle to be in alinement at all tilnes so thatthere is no danger of theneedle failing to accurately enter the hole made by the awl asfrequently occurs in machines in which the awl is employed to feed thework.

The work support is indicated at 2 and the presser foot is indicated at4 (Figs. 1, I and 10). The work support is shaped as usual to enter thecrease between the welt and the upper and to cooperate with and edgegage 6 to guide the work. The work support is provided with the usualslot 8 through which the needle and awl work and through which a fudgeor channel knife 10 for the welt extends. The work support isecentrallyformed on a curved bar 12,the ends of which are secured to arms 14projecting forwardly from a work support carrier .16. I i

It is customary in sewing about the fore- I part of a shoe to guide theshoe by means of the edge gage but as it is desirable, particularly onwomens shoes, to make the line of stitches closer to the upper at theshank than about the forepart of the shoe, the edge gage is retractedwhen the shank is reached to permit the shoe to be guided by the worksupport. In the illustrated machine, in order that the line of stitchesmay be made as close as desired to the upper at the shank of the shoe,the work support has provision for adjustment in the plane of its worksupporting.

surface. To this end, the curved bar 12 is adjust-ably secured to thearms 14 by means of horizontal pins 18 projecting from the ends of thecurved bar engaging split clamping collars formed on the ends of thearms 14.

' The arms 14 are spaced at a distance to permit the looper 20 andpartsof-the actuating mechanism for the needle and awl to oper-. atebetween them.

In order that the work support may be actuated to feed the work, thecarrier 16 is pivotally mounted on a vertical pin 22 supported by theframe of the'machine and spaced at a distance from the end of the worksupport (Figs. 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10). The forward-end of the carrier 16 issupported by means of a bracket 24 thatis provided with a flattenedsurface with which flattened surfaces formed on the under sides of thearms 14 are in slid- In order to move the presser foot 4 laterally withthe work support to feed the work, it is formed on the end of a lever 26which is pivotally mounted on an uprightbracket 28 projecting fromone ofthe arms 14. I

The carrier 16 is moved about its pivot to feed the work by meansofhorizontallyreciprocating blocks 30 (Figs. 7 ,8 and 9) which arepivotally mounted on the ends of a vertiing movement will be imparted tothe work support and presser'foot. The pivot pin 32 is actuated toimpart the desired feeding movements to the work support and presserfoot by means of a link 40 on the forward end of which the pivot pin isformed. Therear end of the link 40 is pivotally connected to J M anarm41secured to the upper end of a vertical rock shaft 42 mounted in theframe. An arm 43 is secured to the lower end of the rock shaft 42 and isprovided with a cam roll v which engages a groove in a cam disk 44carr1ed by a driving shaft 46 of the machine.

In order to adjust the length of the feed,-

the grooved block 38 is adjustable to vary the relative angularpositions of the grooves 34 and 36. The block 38 is pivotally 'mountedby means ofa stud 48 projecting from the top thereof engaging a socketbearing in the framevof the machine, and its rear end is pivotallyconnected to the bifurcated end of a sleeve 50. The'other end of thesleeve 50 is split and embraces the rear end of a rod-52 (Fig. 15), thesleeve being securely clamped to therod by means'of a bolt 54. The rod52 is screw-threaded through a sleeve 56 mounted to turn in a bearing inthe frame and is held from longitudinal movement by nuts 58 threaded onits inner end and by a pinion 60 secured to its forward end. By turningthe sleeve56, the block 38 may be adjusted to vary the length of thefeed. In order that the operator mav conveniently effect such adjustmentof the block 38, the sleeve 56 is adapted to be turned by means of ahand lever 62 (Figs. 1 and 10) secured to the right hand end of a rockshaft 64 mounted in the frame. The connection, between the sleeve 56 andthe hand lever 62 comprises a gear segment 66 engaging the pinion 60,which gear segment is formed on the end of an arm secured tothe rockshaft 64. The grooved block 38 is adapted to be adjusted independ entlyof the handlever 62 to vary the length of the feed. This may beaccomplished by loosening the clamping bolt 54 and turning the rod 52 inthe sleeve 56, a screw driver slot gage the work by means of a coiledspring 70 connected with the rear end of the presser foot lever 26 sothat the presser foot will offer practically no resistance to the backfeeding or retracting movement of the work support and presser foot. Atthe end of the retracting movement of these parts, the presser foot ispressed into engagement with the 7 work with a comparatively heavypressure so as to clamp the stock firmly against the work support and isthen locked in position. The presser foot remains locked until the endof the feeding operation when it is again unlockedand the cycle ofoperations repeated.

The locking mechanism for the presser foot comprises a wedge block 72 Figs. 7 and 10) the upper end of which engagesthe rear end of the presserfoot lever. The lateral faces of the wedge block 72 are preferablyarranged at a relatively small acute angle to each other, as shown inFig. 7. A guide plate 74 secured to the frame is arranged to engage theforward faceof the wedge block and acts to limit the movement of-thewedge block laterally in one direction. A longitudinally movablelockingrwedge block 76is arranged to engage the rear face of thewedgeblock 72 to lock the same from downward movement. The locking wedgeblock 7 0 is mounted to slide on a vertical rod 78 secured to the frame.At the proper times during the operation'of the machine,the lockingwedge block is movedupwardly and acts-through the wedge block 72 toclamp the presser foot upon the work. The block 76. is thus moved-upwardly by ineans of an arm 80, the for- 7 6 upwardly by means of aspring 92 coiled a about the" shaft and having one end connected to thearm 80 and its other end secured to the bearing sleeve 86. In order tovary the clamping pressure of the presser foot on the,

. work, the tension of the spring 92 is adjustable, and this isaccomplished by loosening the bolt 90 and turning the bearing sleeve 86,a collar or nut being formed on the inner end of the sleeve for thispurpose.

The presser foot is unlocked when the needle has reached the limit'ofits work piere ing stroke, preliminary to the back feeding of the worksupport and presser foot, by mechanism connecting the rock shaft'84 withthe needle actuating mechanism hereinafter described. This mechanismcomprises a friction disk 94 (Figs. 10, 13 and 14) secured to the leftend of the rock shaft 84, the periphery of which is adapted to beengaged by a friction shoe 96 to turn the rock shaft S t in thedirection to lower the locking wedge block 76 in opposition to thetorsion spring 92. The shoe 96 comprises a link having one end pivotedon a pin 97 extending between the arms of a yoke 98, the lower ends ofthe arms being joined by a bar 99 and the upper ends of the arms beingloosely mounted on the rock shaft 81 at opposite sides of the disk 94-.The other end of the shoe 96 is pivotally connected with one end of alink 100 and the other end of the link 100 is pivotally'connected withthe free end of an arm 102 projecting from a rocking sleeve 103 mountedon a shaft or rod 104 secured to the frame, the rocking sleeveforming apart of the needle actuating n1echanism, hereinafter described.

The friction shoe 96 is normally maintained in a certain positionrelatively to the cross bar 99 by means of a spring pressed plunger 105mounted'in a longitudinal aperture in the friction shoe and engaging thecross bar 99, the plunger acting to maintain a stop lug 106 formed onthe lower end of the friction shoe in engagement with the cross bar.Vhen the needle is at the limit of its loop drawing movement, thefriction shoe 96 and the link 100 are substantially in alinement, asshown in Fig. 13. During the Work piercing stroke of the needle, therocking sleeve 103 acts to swing the yoke 98 downwardly, the frictionshoe being maintained by the plunger 105 in its normal positionrelatively to the cross bar 99 until the cross bar engages a yieldingstop 108. The continued move ment of the link 100 after the engagementof the cross bar 99 with the yielding stop 10S cooperates with the stopto turn the friction shoe about the pivot pin 97 against the action ofthe spring pressed plunger 105. This turning movement of the frictionshoe brings an eccentric friction surface 107formed on .the shoe intoengagement with the periphery of the disk 94, whereupon the continuedmovement of the link 100 acts through this engagement of the frictionshoe with the friction disk to turn the shaft 84 in the direction tounlock the presser foot, which occurs near the limit of the workpiercing stroke of the needle.

At the start of the loop drawing stroke of the needle, the rockingsleeve'103 is turned in the direction to swing the yoke 98 rearwardlyout of engagement with the yielding stop 108, thereby permitting thefriction shoe 96 to resume its normal, position. relatively to the crossbar 99 and out of engagement with the friction disk 94 to permit thepresser foot to again clamp the work on the work support.

The yielding stop 108 comprises a plunger rod 110 (Fig. 6) mounted toslide in an aperture in the frame and is urged rearwardly by right-handvbracket arm 148. The needle guide 138 projects from a flange 160 on theinner end of the sleeve 154 which flange is adjacent the needle segment.The thread arm or hook 142 is carried by a collar or segment 162journaled on the sleeve 154 between the flange'160 and the left-handbracket arm 148. The edge gage 6 and the fudge knife 10 are mounted onthe free endof an arm or segmeans of a spring 112 coiled about the rodment 164 which is loosely mounted on a bearand engaging a shoulderon therod, the rearward movement of the rod being limited by adjustable stopnuts 114 threaded on'the forward end thereof.

A treadle operated mechanism is provided to enable the operator tounlock and raise the prcsser foot and to release a thread locking deviceso that the work may be easily re-' moved and the requisite amount ofthread pulled from the. supply. This mechanism comprises a treadle rod120 (Figs. 2, 5 and 10) which ispivotally connected at 122 to the freeend of an arm 124 loosely mounted on the presser foot controlling shaft84. The upper end of the treadle rod 120 is pivotally connected with therear end of a lever 126 pivoted on the machine frame and having itsforward end arranged to engage the rear end of the presser foot lever26. When the treadle rod 120 is raised upon actuating the treadlemechanism, the arm 124 is swung upwardly and acts through the engagementof a forwardly projecting lug 128 on the hub thereof with a lug on thelocking wedge blockactuating arm 80,to lower the locking wedge block 76thereby unlocking the presser foot, the

presser foot being then raised by the engagement of the lever 126 withthe presser foot lever. The thread locking device that is released atthis time and its connection with the treadle rod 120 will behereinafter described.

-Upon. releasing the treadle mechanism, a

coiled spring 130 connected with the treadle rod acts to depress therod, thereby allowing the shaft 84 to be turned by its spring in thedirection to lock the prcsser-footin engagement with the work. i

The needle 136, ncedleguide 138, awl 140,

ledge gage 6, fudge knife 10, and a thread 150is screw-threaded througha coaxial aperture in the hub 156 of the awl segment 146 and is lockedto the awl segment by means of a nut 158 threaded on itsouter end. Thehub 156 of the awl segment is journaled in the ing 166 I formed ontheright-hand bracket arm 148, and said arm 164 is interposed be tween theawl segment and a shoulder formed on said bracket arm. With thisconstruction it will be apparent that the instrumentalities abovereferred to are mounted in such a manner that the parts thereof willoperate with certainty audsmoothness and that the liability of the partsbecoming worn with use will structed and arrangedthat the needle and awloperate with ease, certainty and smoothness and-the mechanismstake up aminimum amount of space in the machine.

In lock stitch outsole shoe sewing machines,

it is desirable that the feeding devices shall be given as much timeas'possible tofeed the work during a cycle of operations of the machine.In sewing machines of this type in which the work is fed by means of thework support and presser foot, it is obvious that the length of timethat can be given to these parts to feed thework is dependent upon thelength of time that both the needle and awl are out of the work. In theillustrated machine the mechanisms for actuating the needle and awl areso constructed and arranged that the needle and awl are bothout of thework while their actuating cranks are' travelling approximately 160,thereby giving the work support and presser. foot a comparatively longtime to feed the work. V

The needle and awl actuating mechanisms in the'illustrated machine arealso constructed and arranged in such a manner that both the workpiercing, and retracting strokes of i the needle'andawl are made withrapidity, the needle closely follows the awl'as the awl retracts throughthe work and the needle is maintained at the limit of its workpiercingstroke a sufficient length of time to give the work support andpresser foot ample time to J its actuating crank,it will'be apparentfrom an inspection of the drawings that an idle backward and forwardmovement is imparted to the needle at the limit of its loop drawingstroke, this idle 'movement of the needle being provided in order tomaintain the needle out of engagement with the work the-desired lengthof time and to causethe needle to operate in the proper timed relationto the awl.

This result is due mainly to the arrangement.

of the lever 178 with relation to the bell crank 17 4-17 5,the'arrangement being such that during the oscillating movement of thelever 17 8 in each direction the'pivotal connection of the link 17 6with the'lever 178 crosses the line joining the pivot of the lever andthe pivotal connection of the link 176 with the bell crank.

It will also be apparent that an idlejbackward and forward movement of asuflicient duration is im arted to the needle at the limit of its worpiercing stroke 'to givethe work support and presser foot the desiredlength of time to return to their initial positions after feeding thework. This idle backward and forward movement ofthe needle, however, isonly through a suflicient distance to raise the work slightlyfrom thework support so that during the back feeding or retraction of theworksupport and presser foot the work support will not drag on the work, thebackward part oftheidle move"- ment of the needle occurring at the startof the retraction of the work support and presser foot, and the forwardpart of the movement occurrlng at the limit of the retraction of thework support and. presser. foot,'the latter part of the movement actingto again bring the work down upon the work .support. This result isduemainly to the arrangementofthe bell crank 174-175 with relationto'the needlesegment, the arrangement being such that during.,theoscillating movement of the bell crank in each direction, the pivotalconnection of .the link 172 with the bell crank crosses the line joiningthe pivot of the bell crankand the pivotal connection of the link 172with the needle segment.

of the bell crank188 is connected by a link 190 with the actuating crank169. With this connection between the awl and-its actuating crank itwill be apparent that an idle backward and forward movement will beimparted to the awl at the limit of its retracting movement, this idlemovement being rovided in order to maintain the awl out 0 engagementwith the work the desired length of time and to cause the awl to operatein the proper timed relation to the needle. This'result is .due mainlyto the relation of the bell crank 188-to the awl segment, thearrangement being such that during the oscillating movement of the bellcrank in each direction,

the pivotal connection of the link 186 with the bell crank crosses theline joining the pivotal connection of the link with the needle segmentand the pivot of the bell crank. During the work piercing stroke of theneedle the needle guide is advanced into engagement with the: workan'dis held inthis position while the needle is at the limit of its workpiercing stroke, in order to support the needle against any drag of thework support and presser foot on the workin returning to their initialposition after feeding the work. ,The needle guide is advanced and heldin advanced position by ymeans of the needle segment (Fig. 17), which isconnected by a coiled spring 191 with the carrier for the needle guide.During the loop drawing strokeof the needle the needle guide isretractedby the engagement of the rear end of the needle segment with alug 194 on the needle guide carrier.

c It is frequently desirable in sewing about the shank of a shoe toretract the edge gage and. fudge knife from the work and to lengthen thefeed, and when the forepart of the shoe is reached tomove the edge gageand fudge knife into operative engagement with the shoeand to shortenthe feed. These operations are simultaneously efiected in theillustrated machine by means of the hand operated lever 193 havingitsrearend pivottally mounted on the shaft Stand having its forward [endextending to a position where it is conveniently accessible to theoperator (Figs. 2, 5 and 10) The connection between the hand lever 193'and the edge gage, fudge knife, and work feeding means is such that uponmovement of the leve'r downwardlyfrom the position shown in Fig. i

5, the edge'gage and fudge knife will be moved into operative engagementwith the 1 work and the length of the feed decreased, and upon movementof the lever in the opposite direction the edge gage and fudge knifewill be retracted from the work and the length of the feed increased.

The edge gage 6 is formed on the forward end of a lever pivotallymounted on a. cap

screw 196 between the head of the screw and the arm 164: The end of thecap screw 196 is reduced and extends through an aperture in the end ofthe arm 164 and is threaded into a block 198 on the inner side of thearm. The fudge knife 10 is adjustably secured to the arm 164 by beinginserted in an aperture 200 formed by registering grooves in the 'armand block 198 which are concentric with the axis of the arm. The rearend of the edge gage lever is pivotally connected to the upper arm of abell crank 202 pivotally mounted on a stud shaft 204. On the lower armof the bell crank 202 (Figs. 5, 10 and 16), a block 206 is pivotallymounted which engages acam groove in a segment 210 carried by the handlever 193. The cam groove in the segment 210 is so arranged that uponmovement of the hand lever 193 downwardly from the position shown inFig. 5, the bell crank will be rocked in a direction to move the edgegage and fudge knife into operative engagement with the work, and uponmovement of the hand lever upwardly, the edge gage and fudge knife willbe retracted from the work.

In order that the length of the feed may be ad usted by the hand lever193, the hand lever 62 for adjusting the length of the feed ashereinbefore described, is adapted to be connected to the hand lever193. The lever 62 has a handle 211 pivotally connected with its outchanging the'positions of the edge gage and fudge knife, by swinging thehandle 211 outwardly to disconnect the hand levers 62 and 193, as shownby broken lines in Fig. 10,

. permitting the levers to be moved independently. v

The amount of movement imparted to the edge gage and fudge knife and theamount of adjustment of the feed during a movement of the hand lever 193a given distance may be relatively varied by an adjustment of thesegment 210. To this end the lower end of the segment is pivotallymounted on a down- 21 0 relatively to the shaft 64 may be varied andthereby the amount of movement imparted to the edge gage and fudge kniferelatively to the amount of adjustment of the feed during a movement ofthe lever 193 may be varied. By adjusting the segment 210 so that itscam groove will be concentric with the shaft 64, it will be seen that nomovement will be imparted to the edge gage and fudge knife upon movingthe hand lever 193. Such adjustment of the segment 210 about its pivotis effected by means of a rod 216 having its rear end pivotallyconnected to the upper end of the segment 210. The rod 216 extendsthrough the handle of the lever 193 and its forward end is threaded intoa nut 218 on the end of the handle (Fig. 2). The nut 218 is held fromlongitudinal movement so that by turning the nut the desired adjustmentof the segment 210 can be efiected.

The thread arm or hook 142 (Figs. 1, 6,10, 17 and 20) which cooperateswith the looper 20 to lay the thread in the barb of the needle in theusual manner is actuated by a cam disk 44 carried by the driving shaft46. The connection between the thread hook and the cam disk 44 comprisesa pinion 220 engaging gear teeth formed on the collar or segment 162that carries the thread hook. The pinion 220 is engaged by a gearsegmentformed on the upper end of a lever 222 fulcrumed on a pin 224secured to the machine frame. The lever is actuated by a cam roll 223 onthe lower end thereof engaging a groove in the inner face of the camdisk 44.

The looper 20 comprises a tube through which the thread passes (Figs. 1,6 and 11). Back and forth and transverse movements in a plane inclinedslightly to the horizontal are imparted to the looper which combine tocause the looper to traverse a path about the needle. I The looper issecured in a collar upon the upper end of a carrier 230 pivotallymounted on a pin 232 extending between ears projecting from a block 234.The back and forth movement is imparted to the looper by means of a yoke236 having horizontal hubs 238, one of which is pivoted on the inner endof the stud shaft 204 and the other pivoted on a pin 239 secured to theframe of the machine. The yoke'236 is provided with a slot 240 that isengaged by a downwardly projecting tail piece 242 on the carrier 230.The yoke 236 is provided with a downwardly extending arm 244 having acam roll 246 on its lower end which engages a cam groove in a face ofthe cam disk 247 carried by the shaft 46. The transverse movements areimparted to the looper by means of the block 234 which is rocked about ahorizontal axis,

The block is mounted on the frame of the machine by means of arearwardly extending pin 248 formed on the block engaging an apertureinthe frame. The slot 240 in the yoke 236 is elongated to permit the tailpiece 242 on the looper carrier to work therein upon actuation of theblock 234. The block 234 is actuated by means of a downwardly projectingarm 250 projecting therefrom which is provided with a cam roll 252 onits lower end engaging a cam groove in the cam disk 247. It will benoted that this mechanism for actuating the looper is simple and

